La Paz: Hotel Calacoto

Ben is walking a narrow path along a steep incline high above the valley floor. He rounds a bend and finds himself confronting a wild dog. The dog growls and charges Ben who slips on the loose rock and tumbles down off the path. He finds himself clinging to the ledge with the dog nipping at his fingers.

I lie in my bed unable to sleep, listening to dogs throughout the neighborhood barking, howling, fighting. It isn’t the noise that keeps me awake so much as being drawn into contemplating how a homeless dog problem of this scale could ever be addressed. I learn that there are about 300,000 street dogs in La Paz and the number grows by 20 percent each year.