An Inuit artisan goes from table to table presenting small carvings in the palm of his hand. I buy a narwhal carving made from caribou antler. It is a gift for my mother.
Muktuk is raw, frozen whale skin and blubber. I understand that the muktuk I am eating is narwhal. It comes with a small dish of soy sauce for dipping.
I am at the Storehouse Bar and Grill at the Frobisher Inn looking for a free table. The only spot I can find is next to a large group. I ask if I could sit with them. “My wife and I are leaving Iqaluit tomorrow and this is our send-off. We were saving some seats for additional friends but evidently we’re not as popular as we thought. Go ahead.” The group gets more drunk and raucous as the evening goes on. Eventually the loudest person in the group takes note of me. “Is this guy with us? I love this guy. He’s put up with our shit all night. I’m going to name my next dog after this guy. I’m going to call him Rupert.”