Accra: Country Kitchen

Accra I order goat in my soup to please Henry but then I don’t eat in lest I offend Robin.

Bush meat is on the menu. It is a euphemism for greater cane rat, otherwise known as grasscutter. Eighty million greater cane rats are harvested every year in the region. When you purchase greater cane rat from a butcher you will often receive a complementary bag of stomach contents which can be used to flavour your bushmeat soup.

I am having a hard time getting fufu. When I order it for dinner I am told it is too late in the day, that my stomach wouldn’t have time to digest it. Today I order it for lunch but get rice with my light soup instead.

We watch a World Cup match on tv at the Country Kitchen.

We watch the Under 17 World Cup finals between England and Spain. My driver, Henry, seems to be cheering for Spain. Perhaps there is some residual resentment form England’s colonialism. Or maybe I’m reading too much into it.

He tells me I am shortchanging myself and the people I meet by being so cautious and reticent.

It is reported that Jesse Jackson once ate here.

There are generally no addresses in Ghana. Or where addresses exist, they are largely meaningless to people. Even street names are inconsistent and irrelevant. Locations are identified by their neighbourhood and nearby landmarks, as in “Kokomlemle behind the Training College.” Emilia tells me that when she orders Ubu she has to go through a long description including the colours of houses where the driver needs to turn.